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With clothing design both fashion and function come together. In recent years there has also been a focus on sustainability in the fashion industry which goes way beyond just using organic cotton fabric instead of conventional cotton or manmade fabrics. Sustainable design is the term that is used to describe the philosophy of designing objects to comply with the principles of ecological, social and economic sustainability.

Whilst in some ways fashion contradicts sustainability because the very nature of following constantly changing trends and fashions can be wasteful and also create much waste, there are some ways that fashion and sustainability can go together. Designers are implementing exciting new initiatives to help reduce the impact of clothing on the environment whilst still making it beautiful to look at and functional to wear.

The most innovative designs turn the sustainable features of a piece of clothing into the very thing that makes it desirable, fashionable or stylish. An example of this is the beautiful fabrics that are recycled into new pieces of clothing. It is the vintage nature of the fabrics that make the clothing so beautiful. Recently Christopher Raeburn has used surplus military parachute silk to make very on trend pieces of clothing. There are also various designers pioneering methods to reduce waste in the fashion industry including innovative new pattern cutting techniques which give the garment a characteristic look.

The use of sustainable fabrics is also a key part of sustainable fashion design. There are a number of different sustainable fabrics to choose from each having its own unique look, feel and properties. Bamboo is super soft, warm and comfortable and has been likened to cashmere that drapes like silk; it is perfect for leisure wear and also for draping. Designers are also constantly coming up with new materials that look great and are also good for the environment. Innovative dying techniques and use of natural coloured fabrics have also been used to create beautiful designs.

Sustainability is not just about what the clothing is made of though. It is about the overall and lifecycle of the product. How long will it last and when it reaches the end of its life can it be easily disposed of?

Biodegradable materials are key to reducing waste in the fashion industry but there are also more interesting projects happening for example where shoes can be deconstructed at the end of their useful life and some parts recycled. Any clothing, shoes or accessories can be made more sustainable by designing them to last and for maximum usage. This can include classic and versatile styles that won’t go out of fashion quickly and multitasking pieces of clothing that can be worn in a number of different ways.

Sustainable design is not just about one factor or aspect of clothing that reduces the impact of a piece of clothing on the environment. It is about designing a piece of clothing that takes into account all aspects of the garment from design to sourcing of materials to sale of the product and beyond. In order to be truly sustainable designers also need to take into account social and economic factors.  By embracing this philosophy whilst still ensuring beauty and functionality of the clothing, designers are helping to make the fashion industry more sustainable.

This article was written by Ceri Heathcote.

Ceri is a fashion writer with a particular interest in ethical and eco fashion. She enjoys writing about a variety of topics from vegan shoes and natural footwear to sustainable accessories.

Image- shoe by Po-zu shoes

If you have made the decision to live a more sustainable lifestyle and to only buy products that are considered ethical then new fashion is likely to be something that will have though about. There is plenty of evidence of practices in the fashion industry that are damaging to both the environment and people involved but what is ethical fashion and what do we need to consider when shopping for ethical fashion?

Ethical and sustainable fashion is a term that can be used to describe any clothing that is produced and distributed in a way that is more ethical than conventional clothing. This can include any or all of the following:- organic or sustainable fabrics, made in an ethical factory, Fairtrade, a proportion of the companies profits donated to charity, made by co operatives, made from recycled materials. As the term ‘ethical fashion’ encompasses so many different aspects, it can sometimes be difficult to work out exactly what is ethical.

1.       Environmental Impact

If you want to minimise the impact that your clothing has on the environment, you can do so buy buying second hand or clothes made from organic or sustainable fibres. The cultivation of conventional cotton uses a large amount of pesticides which are both damaging to the environment and can contaminate water supplies. The growth of cotton using pesticides is also not sustainable and farmers become trapped in a cycle of using more and more pesticides to combat the resistance that the pests develop. Other environmental considerations when buying clothes are the carbon footprint or amount of CO2 emissions associated with their production and whether they are made from natural fibres and so biodegradable after their natural life. You could also look for ethical shoes as the process of tanning leather is also damaging to the environment.

2.       A Fair Deal For Everyone

Buying ethical fashion is partly about ensuring that everyone in the supply chain gets fair remuneration. This is particularly important for the growers of cotton and the most well known and established scheme for ensuring this is Fairtrade. There are also a number of other schemes and co operatives that ensure that those involved in the manufacture of clothing get a fair deal.

Buying quality clothes to last is not only the most sustainable way to shop but also allows you to pay a reasonable price for  a piece of clothing which can then be passed on to those in the supply chain.

3.       Manufacture

The factories that clothing is manufactured in are often dirty, dangerous and uncomfortable for workers. Some employ child labour, some treat their staff very badly not allowing them basic human rights and some pay less than a living wage. In particular leather tanning uses some very toxic chemicals that can be damaging to the workers as can the glue used to make shoes. Often ethical shies are made using vegetable tanned leather or other natural materials. Some companies provide information on the standards in the factories where their clothes are produced so that you can be sure that staff are treated ethically.

4.       Overall ethical policies of a company

Whilst some companies may sell clothing that is ethical in one way or another, for some people this is not enough. It is worth considering whether you want to buy ethical fashion from a company, which makes the majority of its money selling non ethical goods.  Many companies will have strict ethical policies covering all areas of their business and may even include donating a proportion of their turnover to charity.

5.       Watch out for green washing

Green washing is the term used to describe unsubstantiated claims about eco or ethical credentials of their products, by companies for the purpose of marketing. The only way to avoid green wash is to look for further information. Some time the labels or packaging on ethical shoes or clothing will give further information. If not the website is a good place to look. Look for standards and certifications which prove their claims and the companies overall ethical policy.

When shopping for ethical fashion, you need to decide what is important to you. The type of ethical shoes or clothing that you buy will very much depend on what you are looking to achieve. By buying Fairtrade, you can ensure that your purchase in benefiting people in another country, by buying clothes manufactured locally, you are helping the local economy and it is easier to check that staff in the factories are treated well. Which ever type of ethical clothing, you choose to buy; any small steps that you can take will have some benefit.

For the first time Po-Zu’s entire Autumn-Winter shoe collection is online. The collection of natural and ethically produced footwear with a topsy-turvy theme is displayed on http://www.po-zu.com/

Warm in even the coldest weather, Po-Zu winter shoes are also breathable. This is achieved by lining them with bio-based materials, which are naturally thermal, such as unbleached and undyed pure felt wool and vegetable tanned sheepskin. This season Po-Zu also treats tweed, felt and sheepskin shoes with an eco-friendly water-resistant coating. Waxed suede shoes are treated with coconut shoe cream to improve water resistance.

The women’s Piper boot is a new, taller version of the old favourite style Pep. With lacing at the back, the shaft become fully adjustable to provide a snug, perfect fit. The vegetarian Joy and Yew styles now come in elegant mixed-colour tweeds with fine blotched-pattern.

As for the men’s range, there is a new Chelsea boot called Che,that has a unique elasticated gusset moulded in natural latex, embossed with the repeat pattern of the Po-Zu butterfly. It’s a refreshing alternative to the typical synthetic woven elastic and is also longer lasting. Technically speaking, the entire range comes with the Butterfly Suspension Mechanism at the heel; it softens the impact as the foot hits the ground. Sandwiched between the sole and the inner-sock lies Po-Zu’s unique coconut fiber ‘foot-mattress’. This dream mattress gradually moulds to the shape of your feet, making them feel incredibly rested.

Po-Zu was launched in 2006 with the aim of setting new standards in ecological and ethical

footwear manufacturing. Its shoes are made from carefully selected natural materials that are healthy for your feet, safe for all the workers throughout the supply chain, and kind to the environment.

By stitching all the components together, Po-Zu avoids harmful glues, making its shoes more breathable, durable, repairable and recyclable.

The brand’s other prime purpose is to provide maximum comfort. The experience of walking or even standing in Po-Zu shoes is absolute pleasure. Thanks to its unique ‘foot-mattress’ feet feel incredibly rested. The coir ‘foot-mattress’ also provides great air circulation to keep feet dry, and good insulation from both hot and cold climates. Po-Zu’s original shoebox was nominated for the UK Green Awards 2006, for best packaging.

The biodegradable coconut box can be used as trays to grow seeds. As the plant grows, the entire packaging can be planted into the ground where it eventually decomposes into the earth.

Following its commitment to produce products that are as non-toxic as possible, Po-Zu launched in 2007 a shoe cream that is so safe it can be eaten. Apart from treating leather, the Edible Shoe Cream is also an all-in-one beauty product that can be used as a lip balm, skin moisturizer, hair conditioner, massage oil and cooking oil. It can even be spread on toast for a nutritious snack.

Choosing a pair of boots for winter is all about finding a really snug and warm option. If you like keeping up with the latest fashion, you are lucky this year as outdoor wear, alpine sports and shearling linings are all key trends and all really cosy. There are also plenty of ethical choices of outdoor boots made from natural materials and vegetable tanned leather.

Our favourites are from the El Nauralista range at Spartoo. A collection of boots inspired by Inuits who live in artic conditions and know more than most how to keep their feet toasty warm.

Inuit Fogh These boots would look amazing with leggings and a  chunky knit jumper or cape plus an oversized knitted scarf.

Organico Fimi - These boots would look great worn over skinny jeans for a very stylish winter outfit. They have a warm lining and a stylish design made from different pieces of leather sewn togther.

Inuit Koki - Another great pair of boots, this time ankle height which is great for wearing with trousers.

Whilst there is plenty of talk about the environmental and ethical impact of the clothes that we wear including the use of pesticides to grow cotton, the energy intensive manufacture of synthetic fabrics and the fast fashion culture which commits thousands of tonnes of textile waste to landfill, we often forget about our shoes and footwear which is just as essential to every day life as clothing and has just as much impact.

The majority of shoes are made from either leather or synthetic materials both of which have huge environmental impacts. Leather is usually tanned using a process which causes damage to the health of the people involved and to the surrounding environment. The tanning uses chemicals including lead, zinc, formaldehyde, dyes and cyanide-based chemicals. Shoes are also often glued together using benzene which is highly toxic and damaging to the health of the workers. Synthetic materials are usually not biodegradable making them difficult to dispose of and also sometimes contain toxic chemicals like phthalates which are damaging to health and the environment in a number of ways. So how is likely is it that there will be more ethical footwear available in the future?

Well there are already a number of companies which specialise in ethical footwear and manufacture shoes using a variety of materials and methods which have a lesser impact on the environment. Po Zu Ethical Footwear makes shoes using a variety of natural materials including cork, organic hemp, natural latex, coconut husk and vegetable tanned leather.  They using stitching instead of glue to make the shoes and the factory follows strict ethical guidelines. The shoes are made to for comfort and durability so that they should have a long life span but when their useful life is over they easily biodegrade.

Brands like Po-Zu are taking big steps forward in the manufacture of ethical footwear but there is still a long way to go in finding the perfect ethical and eco friendly material to make the shoes from. Whilst vegan shoes made of materials like hemp and cork are both incredibly sustainable, they are unlikely to ever replace leather which is favoured for its appearance and durability. Vegetable tanned leather is a better alternative than conventionally tanned leather but still has an environmental impact associated with the rearing of animals and for many there are ethical issues surrounding the welfare of the animals.

One of the changes that would help the growth of ethical footwear would be change in attitude to the buying of footwear. Footwear can be considered as part of the ‘fast fashion culture’ and ‘throw away society’ where low cost shoes are purchased in line with the current trends and thrown away after a few wears. The second hand market for shoes is even less than with clothes. If people could consider an investment which they will keep for many years to come then they may not mind paying a little extra to ensure both quality and that the shoes have been ethically manufactured. The longer life span of shoes would then cut down on waste.

There are a number of potential materials that could be used to make ethical footwear and shoes in the future although there is still some way to go before these materials become completely commercially viable. The ideal material would need to be strong, breathable, durable and look great when made into shoes.

Fish leather is one possible solution. It is made using fish skin which is a by product of the fish industry and it is also really strong. The tanning process also does not use toxic chemicals. At the moment, it is mainly used for products like purses. Ocean leather is another possible solution which is made from kelp but is still in the very early stages of development.

Finding eco friendly footwear can sometimes be tricky. Second hand shoes can be difficult to find in the right size and conventional shoes can be environmentally damaging due to the tanning of leather, synthetic materials and glues used in the manufacture.

For the winter, everybody needs a great pair of boots and we have spotted some amazing eco friendly options at Spartoo.

These CREA grey boots by Airstep are a really individual version of the classic biker boot. They are made using vegetable tanned leather which eliminates the use of environmentally damaging chemicals for tanning the leather. They would look great worn with a pair of skinny jeans.

These Duna Silko boots by Eco brand El Naturalista are also made using vegetable tanned leather. They were designed taking inspiration from the feeling of freedom that rules in the Namibian desert. The heel makes them great for wearing with a smart casual outfit. They look great with trousers or a skirt.

These Organico Fimi boots by El Naturlista are made from by a Scottish artist who takes Mother Nature for his muse. They are made from different pieces of vegetable tanned leather stitched together. They are perfect for wearing with a cosy casual winter outfit.

Hemp is an incredibly versatile plant that can be used to make all sorts of products from clothing and shoes to rope. It can even be used for buildings. The beauty of using hemp as a replacement for a variety of different materials is that it is highly sustainable. Hemp can be grown without the need for pesticides or fertilisers making it a great alternative to cotton. Hemp is also really fast growing as it is a grass, this makes it easily renewable in contrast to timber and wood. The oil from hemp seeds contain amino acids and essential fatty acids making it a great food product but the oil is also used for a huge variety of other industrial products. The oil can even be used as an bio fuel which is a great alternative to non renewable fossil fuels.

The fibre of the hemp plant is also called bast and used to make textiles and paper. The plant typically produces 10% more fibre than either cotton or flax and is strong and quick growing. Textiles made from the hemp plant can be used to make shoes, clothing, sails and carpets. It was widely used for these purposes before the industrial revolution but its popularity then declined due to the availability of other textiles. Hemp clothing is now beginning to become popular again primarily because of sustainability of the plant. Po-zu Ecological Shoes uses hemp as an alternative to leather for manufacturing its ethical and vegan shoes.  

It is hard to imagine but the strength from the hemp plant can be harnessed and used to strengthen buildings. Hempcrete, as it is known is made by mixing hemp hurds and lime. It is less brittle than concrete and therefore is more resistant to cracking reducing the need for expansion joints. Hemp has also been used in other composite materials for construction. The use of hemp in this way is really just in its infancy stage with it mostly being used for prototypes.

Hemp can also be used to make the composite panels for cars. The hemp bast fibre is mixed with fibreglass for a strong material

 As well as it many other uses hemp oil, which is obtained from the fruit of the hemp plant, can be taken as a dietary supplement and has been shown to relieve the symptoms of eczema. It also has anti inflammatory properties and can be used for medical purposes.

The hemp plant is also very useful for ecological reasons. It can be used to clean waste water removing impurities like sewage. It can remove excess phosphorus from chicken effluent or other chemicals. It has even been used to clear contaminents after the nuclear disaster at Chernobyl.  The density and height that the hemp plant can grow to make it ideal for weed control. It minimises the pool of weed seeds i n the soil and is particularly useful for controlling tough weeds, helping to reduce the use of herbicides.

With its sustainability and many different uses, hemp could well be one of the crops of the future providing a partial solution to a number of environmental issues. There are however some issues surrounding the scale of hemp production which is partially limited by it status as a controlled crop in the US. With time, hopefully the production of hemp will become scalable allowing it to be used more extensively to make these many products.

 Po-Zu aims to set new standards in ethical and ecological footwear manufacture with its range of vegan shoes and natural footwear that are healthy for your feet, safe for all the workers throughout the supply chain, and kind to the environment.

Although many people wear leather shoes, few would consider buying or recognise the benefits of vegetable tanned leather. When leather is tanned, a cocktail of highly toxic chemicals are used. Lead, zinc, formaldehyde, dyes and cyanide-based chemicals are just some of the substances used to remove the flesh from the skin and stabilise the structure of the leather. Tanneries are also notorious for causing severe air and water pollution which is damaging to the environment and the health of those living nearby. Workers in the leather industry are often exposed to these dangerous chemicals sometimes without any protective clothing or even shoes.

Spartoo sell a range of vegetable tanned shoes which are a great eco friendly and ethical alternative to conventional ethical shoes and are also beautifully made with great attention to detail.

These stylish Thailandia Mar shoesare made with vegetable tanned leather by Pikolinos. A Spanish brand that manufactures comfortable shoes with respect for the environment.

These Iggdrasil  Maki shoesare also made using vegetable tanned leather, this time by El Naturalista,  a brand that specialises in eco friendly shoe designs.

These stylish Equador shoes are also by Pikolinos and feature two colours and lace cut out leather for an unusual design. This shoe is perfect for those who are concerned with style as well as comfort and the impact of fashion on the environment.